Composting Basics for a Greener Stay in Brown County
by Doug Ayers
Composting Basics for a Greener Stay in Brown County
Have you ever walked through a beautiful garden and wondered about its secret? The truth is often right under your feet, in the soil itself. Understanding a few home composting basics can completely change how you garden and how you think about waste.
You have probably heard of composting before, maybe imagining a pile of old food scraps in a corner of the yard. But it is so much more than that. Think of it as nature's own recycling system, and you are the manager of your own backyard compost project.
As a Soil Food Web Consultant, I look at soil through a microscope every day. Truly healthy soil is alive with billions of microorganisms. These tiny workers are what make gardens flourish, promote plant growth, and help crops produce amazing yields.
The basics of composting are all about cultivating these beneficial microbes. You are not just getting rid of trash; you are actively creating a powerful, living soil amendment. This is the foundation of building a truly healthy ecosystem, right in your own backyard.
Table of Contents:
- Why Bother with Composting?
- The Core Composting Basics: Greens and Browns
- What to Compost (and What to Avoid)
- Getting Started: Your First Compost Pile
- Maintaining Your Compost Pile
- When is Your Compost Ready to Use?
- How to Use Your 'Black Gold'
- Conclusion
Why Bother with Composting?
So, why should you start a compost pile? The reasons are compelling, for both your garden and the planet. A massive amount of food waste and yard trimmings end up in landfills each year, where they release methane, a potent greenhouse gas.
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Backyard composting directly reduces that burden on our local systems. The biggest reward, however, is the 'black gold' you get at the end of the process. This finished compost is packed with nutrients that plants need to thrive.
Using your own compost means you can stop buying bags of chemical fertilizers, creating more sustainable food access from your garden. Your soil structure will improve, helping it to conserve water. This means less watering for you and happier plants during dry spells, building a self-sustaining cycle in your own garden.
The Core Composting Basics: Greens and Browns
Getting started composting basics feels a lot easier once you grasp one simple concept. A healthy compost pile needs a balance of two types of materials. We call them 'greens' and 'browns.'
This balance is all about providing the right food for those helpful microorganisms to digest materials effectively. Greens are nitrogen-rich materials, and browns are carbon-rich materials. The microbes use carbon for energy and nitrogen for protein to grow and reproduce.
A good rule of thumb is to aim for about two to three parts browns for every one part greens by volume. But do not get too stuck on exact measurements when you start. Observation is your best composting guide.
What Are 'Browns'? (Carbon)
Brown material is typically dry, woody, and adds bulk to your pile. This carbon-rich material creates air pockets, which are critical for good air circulation in the decomposition process. Without enough browns, a compost pile can become a dense, smelly, and slimy mess.
Think of browns as the 'fluff' that prevents compaction and allows the pile to breathe. They are also the primary food source for beneficial fungi, which are key players in breaking down tough materials. Piles generally need a steady supply of bulky browns.
Here are some great sources of brown materials:
- Dry leaves and pine needles.
- Straw or hay.
- Small twigs and wood chips.
- Sawdust from untreated wood.
- Shredded newspaper or cardboard (avoid glossy paper).
- Crushed eggshells.
- Dryer lint from cotton clothing.
What Are 'Greens'? (Nitrogen)
Green materials are the nitrogen-rich components of your pile. They are usually wet and provide the fuel that gets a compost pile 'cooking' by feeding the fast-acting bacteria. These items provide essential proteins and moisture the microbes need.
Too many greens without enough browns can lead to an odor problem because the pile becomes too dense and wet. But with the right balance, they fuel the decomposition engine. Managing this balance is a key part of compost pile basics.
Some common green materials include:
- Vegetable scraps and fruit scraps.
- Coffee grounds and used tea bags.
- Fresh grass clippings.
- Plant trimmings from the garden.
- Weeds that have not produced weed seeds.
What to Compost (and What to Avoid)
Knowing what goes into your pile is just as important as the brown and green balance. Most kitchen scraps and yard waste are perfect for composting. Sticking to the right ingredients prevents pests and bad smells.
Cutting up larger items into smaller pieces helps speed up decomposition. Tough food scraps like corn cobs or broccoli stalks will break down eventually, but chopping them helps a lot. Remember to remove any small produce stickers from your peels and rinds before tossing them in.
Safe to Add to Your Compost
This list covers most of the items you will come across daily. You will be surprised how much you can divert from your garbage can. Many common household items you normally throw away can become part of your pile.
The variety of materials you add contributes to a richer finished compost. Don't be afraid to experiment with the items from this list. A diverse diet is good for your pile's microorganisms, just like it is for people.
Material Type | Examples |
---|---|
Fruit & Veggie Scraps | Apple cores, banana peels, carrot tops, lettuce, tough food like corn cobs |
Yard Trimmings | Grass clippings, dry leaves, small branches, old plants |
Kitchen Staples | Coffee grounds, crushed eggshells, tea bags, stale bread |
Paper Products | Shredded newspaper, cardboard (not glossy), paper towels |
Other Items | Hair and fur, sawdust, wood ash (in small amounts), dryer lint |
Items to Keep Out of Your Pile
Some things can cause big problems in a home compost pile. They can attract animals and unwanted pests like rodents, create terrible odors, or introduce harmful pathogens. For a happy, healthy pile, it is best to avoid these items entirely, which the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency also recommends.
Dairy, fats, and meat are particularly problematic because they attract animals and can make your pile smell rancid. Diseased plants can spread pathogens to your finished compost and back into your garden. Always err on the side of caution if you are unsure about an item.
- Meat, fish, and bones.
- Dairy products (milk, cheese, yogurt).
- Fats, grease, and oils.
- Pet waste (dog or cat feces).
- Diseased or insect-infested plants.
- Weeds that have gone to seed.
- Treated or painted wood and sawdust from it.
- Coal or charcoal ash.
- Glossy paper or magazines.
Getting Started: Your First Compost Pile
You do not need fancy equipment for yard composting. A simple pile in a corner of your yard works perfectly well. You can also buy or build a composting bin if you prefer something more contained.
The most important step is simply starting. Pick a shady spot that has good drainage for your pile. It should be easily accessible so you can add kitchen scraps and turn it without hassle.
The Simple, No-Bin Method
This is backyard composting in its most basic form. Find a spot in your yard that is roughly three feet by three feet. This size is large enough for the pile to reach high temperatures but small enough to manage with a garden fork.
Start your pile with a thick layer of browns, like twigs or shredded cardboard, to promote air circulation from the bottom. Then, start adding your layers, alternating between green materials and brown materials. After adding a layer of greens like food scraps, always cover it with a layer of browns to contain odors and hide any visible food.
For a slightly more structured approach, you can build a simple enclosure with wire mesh or cinder blocks. This helps keep the pile neat. No matter the setup, the layering principle remains the same for your compost pile.
Using a Compost Bin
If you have a smaller space or want a tidier look, a compost bin is a great choice. There are many different types available, from stationary models to tumblers. Tumbling composters are barrels on a stand that you can rotate easily to mix the contents.
Stationary bins are typically open at the bottom so they sit directly on the ground, allowing worms and other beneficial organisms to enter. A bin helps keep the pile neat and can speed up the process by holding in heat and moisture. It also does a better job of keeping curious critters out.
The basic layering principle of greens and browns stays exactly the same, no matter what container you use. Compost bin basics are the same as pile basics: balance carbon and nitrogen, and manage air and water. This is a core part of creating healthy soil.
A Note on Worm Composting
For those in apartments or with very limited space, worm composting, or vermicomposting, is an excellent option. This method uses a special worm bin and red wiggler worms to process food scraps. The worms do most of the work, turning your vegetable scraps into nutrient-rich castings. By the way, we sell Worm Castings - if you want to skip the hard part.
A worm bin is a closed system that you can keep indoors, on a balcony, or in a garage. You collect food scraps in a container and add them to the bin every few days. The resulting worm castings are one of the most prized soil amendments for houseplants and container gardens.
Maintaining Your Compost Pile
Once your pile is started, your main jobs are to manage air and water. Without them, the decomposition process will slow down or stop altogether. This attention allows the microbes to efficiently produce compost.
Think of it like tending to a very, very slow-cooking meal. You need to check on it occasionally and make small adjustments. This care makes sure the microorganisms have everything they need to break everything down.
Your main task is to turn pile every week or two. Use a garden fork or a compost aerator for the pile turn, mixing materials from the outside to the hot center. This introduces fresh oxygen and helps the pile break down more evenly and quickly.
Your pile should also stay about as moist as a wrung-out sponge. If it gets too dry, the microbes go dormant, so you may need to add water with a hose. If it gets too wet from extra liquids or rain, it can go anaerobic and start to smell sour; if this happens, add browns like shredded paper or dry leaves to soak up the excess moisture.
A properly managed compost pile will reach temperatures between 130-160°F (55-70°C). This heat is a sign of intense microbial activity and is hot enough to kill most weed seeds and pathogens. You don't need a thermometer, but if your pile is steaming on a cool morning, you know it's working well. Conversely, if you stick your hand in it and it's uncomfortably hot, it is either in the right temperature zone or maybe above it.
When is Your Compost Ready to Use?
Patience is part of the process, and pile time can vary. Depending on your method and materials, it can take anywhere from a few months to a year to get finished compost. You will know it is done by looking, feeling, and smelling it.
Finished compost will be dark, crumbly, and uniform in texture. You should not be able to recognize the original items you put in, though there might be a few stubborn bits like avocado pits or small twigs. Most of it will look and feel like rich, dark soil.
The smell is the best indicator. Finished compost does not smell like garbage or ammonia. It has a wonderful, earthy aroma, like the smell of a forest floor after it rains. When your pile has that pleasant scent, it is time to harvest finished compost for your garden.
How to Use Your 'Black Gold'
Congratulations, you have successfully made your own soil amendment. Now comes the fun part: using it. Your finished compost is a versatile product you can use all over your yard and garden to build healthy soil.
It is almost impossible to use too much compost. You can mix it into the soil in your vegetable or flower beds before planting. A two to three-inch layer worked into the top six inches of soil will give new plants a fantastic start.
You can also use it as a top dressing for existing plants. Simply spread a half-inch layer around the base of plants and gently work it into the surface. Spreading a thin layer across your lawn can also improve its health and color.
You can even use it to make your own potting mix for container plants. Just mix one part compost with two parts soil for a rich, homemade blend. For an even bigger boost, you can learn about brewing compost tea to spray on your plants for an instant infusion of beneficial microbes.
Conclusion
Learning these composting basics opens the door to a healthier garden and a more sustainable home. It connects you to the natural cycles of decay and growth right in your own yard. You will see your food scraps and yard waste not as trash, but as a valuable resource.
It may seem like a lot to learn at first, but it quickly becomes a simple, rewarding routine as you collect food scraps and tend your pile. Starting your composting journey will improve your garden and reduce your environmental footprint. The hardest part is getting started, and now you have the knowledge of the basics of composting to do just that.
About the Author
Doug Ayers

Doug Ayers is a Soil Food Web Consultant and co-founder of Brown County Souvenir. He specializes in soil health, microscopy, and composting.